Pattern Making Course

Lesson 1 • Pattern Paper and Materials

Covers paper types, weights, and alternative materials used for drafting and tracing. Students select appropriate materials for different pattern stages.

Lesson 2 • Reading Pattern Diagrams and Symbols

Decodes standard pattern notation including grain lines, notches, and fold marks. Accurate symbol reading prevents construction errors in all later chapters.

Lesson 3 • Pattern Making Tools and Equipment

Introduces essential hand tools, rulers, and measuring instruments used in pattern making. Establishes the baseline toolkit every student must master before drafting begins.

Lesson 1 • Ease Allowances and Fit Preferences

Defines wearing ease and design ease and their impact on pattern dimensions. Students apply correct ease values to measurement records before drafting begins.

Lesson 2 • Taking Accurate Body Measurements

Teaches correct posture, tape tension, and sequence for measuring a live model. Consistent technique ensures measurements translate reliably into drafted patterns.

Lesson 3 • Anatomical Landmarks for Measurement

Identifies key body points used as anchors for accurate measurement. Understanding anatomy prevents common fitting errors introduced by incorrect landmark placement.

Lesson 1 • Dart Fundamentals in Bodice Blocks

Explains dart function, anatomy, and construction accuracy in fitted bodice blocks. Mastery of darts here is prerequisite for dart manipulation in later chapters.

Lesson 2 • Drafting the Back Bodice

Constructs the back bodice with back neckline, shoulder, and corresponding armhole. Students reconcile front and back measurements to ensure balanced side seams.

Lesson 3 • Drafting the Front Bodice

Constructs the front bodice shape including neckline, shoulder slope, and armhole curve. Each step builds directly on the layout geometry established in the previous section.

Lesson 4 • Truing and Finalizing the Bodice Block

Refines curves, checks seam lengths, and adds seam allowances to complete the block. A trued block ensures accurate pattern pieces in all subsequent garment developments.

Lesson 1 • Straight and A-Line Skirt Blocks

Drafts front and back straight skirt blocks with waist darts and hip shaping. Students also convert the straight block into a basic A-line silhouette.

Lesson 2 • Integrating Blocks into a Block Set

Combines bodice, sleeve, and skirt blocks into a labeled, organized master block set. A complete block set is the reusable foundation for all pattern development work.

Lesson 3 • Drafting the Sleeve Cap Curve

Constructs the sleeve cap curve using armhole measurements and notch placement. Accurate cap curves ensure smooth set-in sleeve insertion without puckers.

Lesson 1 • Principles of Dart Rotation

Explains how dart intake rotates around the bust apex without changing block dimensions. Understanding rotation principles prevents fit distortion during manipulation.

Lesson 2 • Slash-and-Spread Method

Applies the slash-and-spread technique to move darts and add fullness to pattern pieces. Students practice on bodice blocks before applying the method to skirts and sleeves.

Lesson 3 • Style Lines Derived from Dart Manipulation

Applies dart manipulation skills to create yokes, empire waists, and panel seams. Students produce finished pattern pieces for at least two style line variations.

Lesson 4 • Combining and Suppressing Darts

Merges multiple darts into one or converts dart intake into seam shaping and ease. These techniques are essential for creating princess seams and other structural style lines.

Lesson 1 • Shoulder, Neckline, and Armhole Corrections

Corrects sloping shoulders, forward shoulder posture, and armhole size discrepancies. These corrections require coordinated changes across multiple pattern pieces.

Lesson 2 • Length and Width Adjustments

Applies lengthening, shortening, and width corrections to bodice, sleeve, and skirt patterns. Students use adjustment lines to preserve pattern proportions during corrections.

Lesson 3 • Pants and Skirt Fitting Corrections

Addresses crotch curve, hip, and waist fitting issues specific to pants and skirt blocks. Students apply corrections to the block and verify changes with a second toile.

Lesson 4 • Diagnosing Common Fit Problems

Identifies wrinkle patterns, drag lines, and excess fabric as symptoms of specific fit issues. Accurate diagnosis is prerequisite to applying the correct pattern correction.

Lesson 1 • Grading Sleeves and Curved Seams

Applies grading rules to sleeve caps and curved seam areas that require special handling. Students learn to maintain cap ease and curve integrity across sizes.

Lesson 2 • Creating a Graded Pattern Nest

Assembles individual graded sizes into a nested overlay for efficient production use. A clean nest confirms grade consistency and prepares patterns for marker making.

Lesson 3 • Grading Principles and Grade Rules

Defines grading as proportional size scaling and introduces grade rule tables. Students understand how grade amounts are distributed across pattern points.

Lesson 1 • Collar and Neckline Pattern Development

Constructs flat, stand, and rolled collar patterns derived from neckline measurements. Each collar type requires a different geometric approach tied to neckline shape.

Lesson 2 • Developing a Complete Garment Pattern Set

Applies all course skills to develop, fit, and finalize a multi-piece original garment pattern. Students produce a production-ready pattern set with all pieces labeled and graded.

Lesson 3 • Pants Block Drafting and Variations

Drafts a fitted pants block from crotch, hip, and inseam measurements using standard construction methods. Students then develop trouser and wide-leg variations from the base block.

Lesson 4 • Waistbands, Facings, and Interfacing

Develops waistband, facing, and interfacing patterns that finish garment edges cleanly. Accurate facing patterns depend on the final corrected garment pattern pieces.